When flamboyant author Paul Theroux recounted his solo kayak adventure in the South Pacific kingdom in his book, The Happy Isles Of Oceania, his verdict on Tonga was not unreservedly inviting: "Tongan snobbery, offensiveness, incivility and rampant xenophobia have kept the great glorious archipelago... one of the least spoiled places in the Pacific."

Stephanie Beacham, long a lover of adventure and never one to heed the critics, decided to explore the islands for herself before the Visit The South Pacific Year begins officially in 1995. At the invitation of the King of Tonga, HM King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV, she was taking a break following her starring role in Spielberg's TV series seaQuest.

Her travelling companion was her 19-year-old daughter Phoebe, who is following in her mother's footsteps by becoming an actress.

Both Stephanie and Phoebe are accustomed to leading hectic lives, but it didn't take long for them to slip into island mode, and Tonga provided just the tonic to soothe frazzled nerves,

Stephanie had had the chance to do some soul-searching when we joined the Beachams on their dream holiday in the sultry paradise that is the kingdom of Tonga.

"I've been working in Los Angeles for so long now and the lifestyle is very seductive, but I hanker after a fabulous play in the West End. I'd like to split my time a little more evenly between the two continents so that I can spend more time with my family. My parents live in Devon and my daughters are also based in England so the pull is tremendous.

"I've always been the sort of person who wants to tick off every country in the world, so the idea of an adventure holiday really appealed. And it's been a long time since Phoebe and I had a holiday together, just the two of us.

"People often see me as an extension of the roles I played in Dynasty and The Colbys. Though I enjoy sophistication, I am actually a lover of the simple things in life. I am extremely casual in my own environment, favouring jeans and a T-shirt, and can think of nothing nicer than sharing pasta and a bottle of wine with friends.

"We took up the invitation from the King of Tonga to visit a corner of the world I have long wished to see. Having experienced the luxury of places like the Caribbean, the lure of Tonga was the chance to experience a more primitive isolation, a more grass-roots experience of living, as well as that warm turquoise water.

"The weather is topsy turvy the world over at the moment and Tonga is no exception. We visited during the dry season but rain greeted our arrival. It had been raining solidly for three weeks prior to our visit but the locals were confident of an improvement.

"You must be extremely careful how you ask a Tongan a question. So concerned are they not to offend that they will give you the answer they think you want to hear. 'What has the weather been like?' will be greeted with an, 'Oh, very good, it's only been raining for the last few days', when in fact it has been raining for the last three weeks. Thankfully, during our stay, the weather lifted to reveal the islands in all their glorious beauty.

"On Tongatapu, the largest island, is the port of Nuku'alofa, housing the government buildings, European hotels and many handicraft shops - the island offers some of the finest weaving in the South Pacific. Tonga's international airport is located on this island, and the quaint little hotel called the International Dateline Hotel is one of the few places with hot and cold running water for weary travellers. But most tourists move on quickly to other islands.

"We wanted to get among the people and learn something of the traditional island life, so we took a 45-minute boat ride and headed north to Atata. It's the perfect place to experience village life, while enjoying the comfort of a resort. The Sunset Beach resort, partly owned by the Crown Prince of Tonga, helps support the local village which earns a living mainly from fishing.

"It was wonderful to be able to visit the island's school - the only one for its 33 children. I took an English lesson and was delighted by the children's competence. I don't know whether Dynasty has ever reached Tongan television but wherever I went I was mobbed for autographs.

"Tongan hospitality is remarkable. We were entertained with feasts and dancing and invited to a kava drinking ceremony. Kava has to be one of the most unappealing drinks known. It is made from the root of the pepper plant and, although non-alchoholic, it has an analgesic effect. We couldn't refuse the celebratory drink, but we became experts in sipping slowly!

"Atata is reputed to have the finest sunsets in the South Pacific and we were blessed with a beautiful one. During our stay we dined on freshly caught fish and lost track of the number of coconuts consumed to counteract the humidity and heat.

"Coconuts are a necessary staple in this part of the world. Learning how to open and crack one is something of a science which took us our entire holiday to master. We didn't even attempt to scale coconut trees, deciding it was too unladylike!

"We had further attacks of the fumbles when we sat down for quick lessons in mat-weaving and fish-wrapping.

"Phoebe and I also attempted the traditional tau'olunga dance. Our efforts had everyone in fits of laughter. No one was being deliberately unkind - we must just have looked hilarious.

"I love eating outdoors and the feasts we enjoyed throughout the islands were a highlight. All a Tongan needs is a beach, some coconuts, taro leaves, fish, perhaps a suckling pig rotated over a fire four three or four hours, and a fine mat to sit on. The food is cooked in a traditional oven called an umu; the food is buried in the sand with hot coals and left for a couple of hours until it's ready to enjoy with another fresh coconut.

"The most memorable feast we shared was on a little atoll in the Vava'u group of islands to the far north of Tongatapu.

"Vava'u is the place to visit if you want to enjoy a Robinson Crusoe-style experience. It has the most spectacular turquoise water and stunning white, soft sandy beaches. There are countless uninhabited spots to bask in the sun and enjoy secluded anchorage.

"As Vava'u is one of the great yachting destinations of the world, most people choose to arrive by boat. In Neiafu, the capital, you could enquire about chartering a yacht to enable you to enjoy this island kingdom at its best - from the sea. Visiting Tonga isn't about staying put on land, it's about getting out on to the water as fast as you can.

"Vava'u has 33 islands in its group and you can stop off at any number of them to enjoy a feast, some dancing or a look at local handicrafts. Every time you think you've found the most fabulous beach in the world, another more beautiful one comes into view.

"What Phoebe and I treasured most about our trip was the chance of spending some uninterrupted time together. Phoebe and her sister Chloe have been in boarding school since I settled in LA and I miss them terribly. Phoebe is now out of school and ready to embark on her acting career and Chloe is still boarding, so we only get to catch up during school holidays.

"After years of dealing with nannies and with a career going flat out, boarding school offered them the greatest stability. But as a mother being far away from her children, the separation is heart-wrenching.

"I'm delighted with Phoebe's decision to be an actress and feel if there's one thing I have to offer her, it is to ease her passage into the profession. It isn't easy and it isn't as glamorous as it appears but it surely affords you the opportunity for a full and colourful life.

"Who'd have ever thought that I would receive an invitation from the King of Tonga to visit his island. Thank you, Your Majesty."